The Sahara (26th - 29th April)
After
arranging a three day/two night Sahara tour through our hotel, we set
off from Jmaa El Fna in a 9 person mini bus.
We drove through the Atlas mountains, stopping at Tizi-N-Tichka Atlas pass – a point with the higest altitude and spectacular views across the Berber villages on the mountains.
We
visited an Argan Oil Cooperative and discovered the steps in which
Argan Oil and other products are made. We tried Argan honey, Argan
butter (similar to peanut butter) and Argan Oil (for eating and for
cosmetic use). The nut is picked from the tree, the outer shell is
removed, the nut is then cracked open and then ground using a special
device.
Passing
between towns through the Atlas mountains, the contrast between the
desolate red coloured mountains and the luscious green valleys was
amazing.
Our next
stop was the UNESCO World Heritage site and popular filming location
for many famous films – Ait Ben Haddou. This old Berber Village
dates from approximately the Tenth Century and was an important stop
along the Saharan trade route. There are now only eight families
living the old town. The new city was built around 15 years ago
and has many hotels, restaurants and is the place where most people
now live.
The Old Berber Village - Ait Ben Haddou
The new village - Ait Ben Haddou
Rose
Valley and the Dades Gorge were next. The smell of roses drifted
through the mini bus on our way through the Valley and Dades Gorge
was beautiful and peaceful. The rock formations were amazing.
Rose Valley
Dades Gorge
We found it extremely interesting how the Berber people build their houses – with bricks made of clay and straw – these houses are very comfortable; being cool during the midday heat which reached close to 40 degrees while we were here.
The next
day, we drove through the Todra Gorge, passing many more Berber
villages along the way. Todra Gorge was filled with many date palms
and was extremely green and vibrant.
We took
a walking tour with a local guide along the river that flows through
the Todra Valley and through a local Berber village filled with fresh
produce. We were surprised at how fertile the soil was, with many
fig, almond, pomegranate and peach trees along with other vegetables
growing in abundance. We passed local women washing clothes, and
also visited a Women's Cooperative where we were treated to a Moroccan
tea ceremony (Berber Whiskey) and learnt how the Berber carpets are
made. We even met a local donkey – we heard our first EEE OOOORR
here!
We passed through a neaby gorge where hundreds of locals were bathing, picnicking, dancing, singing and enjoying the weekend. Some local Nomadic women were filling up their water containers to take back up into the gorge, ready for their next trek. Their donkeys were left nearby to graze, as they collected the water.
One step closer to the desert, we
entered the Sahara – passing through the famous city gate that is
traditionally known as 'The Gateway to the Sahara'.
Our last
stop before arriving in Merzouga was the town of Rissani and a
beautiful mausoleum, decorated with beautiful stained glass and heavy
doors. Unfortunately we could not go inside due to not being muslim, however admired the building from the outside.
Ready to
make our way to our Berber tents for a night of camping, we put on
our turbans and took a 4WD through the amazing dunes (on the roof of
course! No safety standards here!) and then a camel for the
remainder of the way. Our first sight of the dunes was breathtaking
and you cannot describe in words the look and feel of being in the
Sahara Dunes.
My Camel
was a beautiful white one, and treated me to a 'duck face' for the
camera!
The
following morning, we took the camels back to the city during
sunrise. The dunes seemed to go on forever and looked amazing with
the morning sun beating down.
We
stayed another night in a beautiful secluded hotel which packed onto
the Saharan Dunes. We watched the beautiful sunset on the dunes and
were marvelled at the distances the local desert beetles travel in a
matter of minutes!
We
finished our time here with a candle light dinner right in front of
the dunes. It was a beautiful place to relax and unwind after a busy
couple of days. We were even visited by a wild toad while having
dinner! (not something you would expect in the desert!).
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